Viet Nam

 

Central Vietnam

Demilitarised Zone - Dong Ha - Lao Bao - Quang Tri - Hue - Around Hue - Suoi Voi Bach Ma National Park - Lang Co Beach - Hai Van Pass Tunnel
Ba Na Hill Station - Suoi Mo - Danang - Around Danang - Hoi An - Around Hoi An My Son - Tra Kieu - Tam Ky

AROUND DANANG

Nam O Beach
Nam O Beach is on the Bay of Danang about 15km northwest of the city. The small local community supported itself for years by producing firecrackers. Since the ban on firecrackers by the government in 1995, the resourceful locals have recently gone into making nuoc mam instead - and while it's not as profitable as firecrackers, it's better than nothing. There is another local speciality here called goi ca, which is fresh, raw fish fillets mari-nated in a special sauce and coated in a spicv powder - something like Vietnamese sushi At the time of research a massive new com-plex, Red Beach Resort, was being built at the city end of the beach.
Nui Son Tra (Monkey Mountain)
Jutting out into the sea like a giant pair of Mickey Mouse ears, the Son Tra peninsuLa is crowned by the mountain that the Amen can soldiers called Monkey. Until recently Monkey had a military base on its back, but gradually the military has been loosening its grip. An excellent new road winds around the southern edge and several resorts have sprung up - mainly catering to Vietnamese tourists (see below). The large foreigner-friendly Nui Son Tra resort on the isolated eastern side was under construction at the time of research, as was a major bridge linking Tien Sa Port (Cang Tien Sa) with the northern tip of Danang. A memorial near Nui Song Tra's eastern edge commemorates an unfortunate episode of colonial history. Spanish-led Filipino and French troops attacked Danang in August 1858, ostensibly to end Emperor Tu Duc's mistreatment of Catholics. The city quickly fell, but the invaders had to contend with cholera, dysentery, scurvy, typhus and mysterious fevers. By the summer of 1859, the number of invaders who had died of illness was 20 times the number of those who had been killed in combat. Many of the tombs ( admission free) of the Spanish and French soldiers arc below a chapel near Tien Sa Port. The names of the dead are written on the walls. To get here, cross Song Han Bridge and turn left onto Đ Ngo Quyen, continuing north to the port. The ossuary, a small white building, stands on the right on a low hill, about 500m before the gate of the port and below the chapel. The sheltered Tien Sa Beach, behind the port and the chapel, is quiet and calm, with clear water. It's good for a swim if you can ignore the litter, and there are great views across to the Hai Van Pass.
SLEEPING & EATING
Bai Rang (Tell: 0511-971904; Son Tra; r 150,000d) This place will only appeal to a certain type of backpacker. Unquestionably the real deal, you'll be sleeping in a thatched roof shack where you may want to check the toilet for frogs before you use it. Take a sleeping mat if you choose to stay. There is a ramshackle restaurant and a boat on poles serving as a bar, all set in a placid bay.
Bien Dong Resort (Tell: 0511-990 179; Son Tra, r300,000d;) Wonderfully isolated, nobody speaks a word of English here. A number of tidy bungalows are dotted around the edge of the jungle. There are two swimming pools for those bored with the idyllic beach, as well as a restaurant and bar. Concrete deer guard the grounds.
Marble Mountains
A spectacular sight from the new China Beach coastal road, Marble Mountains ( admission 15,000d; Time 7am-5pm) consist of five craggy marble outcrops topped with delicate pagodas. Ironically, the sculptors based around the mountains now use marble shipped in from China, as locals began to realise that at the rate they were using it, there wouldn't be any marble, or any mountains, left to entice visitors. Each mountain is said to represent a natural element and is named accordingly: Thuy Son (Water), Moc Son (Wood), Hoa Son (Fire), Kirn Son (Metal or Gold) and Tho Son (Earth). The largest and most famous, Thuy Son, has a number of natural caves in which first Hindu, and later Buddhist, sanctuaries have been built over the centuries. Of the two paths leading up Thuy Son, the one closer to the beach (at the end of the village) makes for a better circuit. At the top of the staircase is a gate, OngChon, which is pock marked with bullet holes. Behind Ong Chon is Linh Ong Pagoda. Entering the sanctuary, look to the left to see a fantastic figure with a huge tongue. To the right of Linh Ong are monks' quarters and a small orchid garden-Behind Linh Ong, a path leads left through two short tunnels to several caverns known as Tang Chon Dong. There are several concrete buddhas and blocks of carved stone of Cham origin in these caves. Near one of the altars is a flight of steps leading up to another cave, partially open to the sky, with two seated Bud-dhas in it. Immediately to the left as you enter Ong Chon Gate is the main path to the rest of Thuy Son. Stairs off the main pathway lead to Vong Hal Da, a viewpoint for a brilliant panorama of China Beach. The stone-paved path continues to the right and into a canyon. On the left is Van Thong Cave. Opposite the entrance is a cement Buddha, and behind that there is a narrow passage that leads up to a natural chimney open to the sky. Exit the canyon and pass through a battle-scarred masonry gate. There's a rocky path to the right, which goes to Linh Nham, a tall chimney-shaped cave with a small altar inside. Nearby, another path leads to Hoa Nghiem, a shallow cave with a Buddha inside. If you go down the passageway to the left of the Buddha, you come to cathedral-like Huyen Khong Cave, lit by an opening to the sky. The entrance to this spectacular chamber is guarded by two administrative mandarins (to the left of the doorway) and two military mandarins (to the right). Scattered about the cave are Buddhist and Confucian shrines; note the inscriptions carved into the stone walls. On the right a door leads to two stalactites, dripping water that comes from heaven, according to local legend. Actually, only one stalactite drips; the other one supposedly ran dry when Emperor Tu Duc touched it. During the American War this chamber was used by the VC as a field hospital. Inside is a plaque dedicated to the Women's Artillery Group, which destroyed 19 US aircraft from a base below the mountains in 1972. Just to the left of the masonry gate is Tam Thai Tu, a pagoda restored by Emperor Minh Mang in 1826. A path heading obliquely to the right goes to the monks' residence, beyond which are two shrines. From there a red dirt path leads to five small pagodas. Before you arrive at the monks' residence, stairs on the left-hand side of the path lead to Vong Giang Dai, which offers a fantastic 180-degree view of the other Marble Mountains and the surrounding countryside. To get to the stairway follow the path straight on from the gate. A torch (flashlight) is handy for exploring the caves. Local children have learned that foreigners buy souvenirs and leave tips for unsolicited guided tours, so you won't begin your visit alone. And watch your wallets! The local government adopted a regulation that the children cannot take ups. but can sell souvenirs. This seems counterproductive; most travellers would rather tip the kids for the-guided tours than buy the sorry souvenirs on offer. In general, the kids arc good-natured, n extremely persistent, and some of the caves a re difficult to find without their assistance, Local buses between Danang and Hoi An (tickets 8000d) can drop you at Marble Mountains, 19km north of Hoi An.
Non Nuoc Hamlet
Non Nuoc Hamlet is on the southern side of Thuy Son and is a few hundred metres west of Non Nuoc Beach. The marble carvings made here would make great gifts if they didn't weigh so much. It's fun to watch the carvers at work, and there are some tiny carved figures that make nice presents. The town has been spruced up for tourism. During the war, the Americans referred to the shantytown near here as 'Dogpatch', after a derelict town in the comic strip L’il Abner. Most of the residents living here at the time were refugees fleeing the fighting in the surrounding countryside.
China Beach
Thanks to the eponymous 1980s TV series, China Beach will forever be associated with pretty young military nurses complaining about their love lives to the accompaniment of the Rolling Stones' Paint It Black. During the war the Americans used the name to refer to the beautiful 30km swoop of fine white sand that starts at Monkey Mountain and finishes near Hoi An, with the Marble Mountains near its centre. The part they were most familiar with was the area close to Danang where soldiers stationed all over the country would be sent for some R&R. For some, a picnic on the beach was their last meal before their return to combat by helicopter. The Vietnamese call sections of the beach by different names, including My Khe, My An, Non Nuoc and Cua Dai. In the last decade a clever entrepreneur cashing in on the TV series started calling the area in front of his hotel China Beach - although it's considerably south of where the Americans hung out, While My Khe is now basically a suburb of Danang and Cua Dai is widely considered Hoi An's beach, much of the area in between is gorgeously undeveloped. Not for long, however: a major four-lane dual carriageway has just been built along the entire length, with the beginnings of side roads starting and then abruptly stopping in the sand after a few metres. As you drive through small towns you can see where houses have been cut in half to widen the route. The beachfront land has been divided into parcels with the government actively encouraging resort development. This could easily turn into another Mui Ne. with the open sandy vista hidden by the walls of luxury resorts. There are already a number of exclusive resorts at Cua Dai; quite how developers would fill another 30 is anyone's guess. Like Mui Ne, it may result in prices falling in the future. In December 1992 China Beach was the site of the first international surfing competition in Vietnam. The surf can be very good from around mid-September to December, particularly in the morning when wind conditions are right.
MY KHE BEACH
Just across the Song Han Bridge (10,000d by xe om). My Khe is fast becoming Danang's easternmost suburb. In the early morning and evening the beach fills up with city-siders doing Tai Chi. After dark the deckchairs are more in demand than during the day, with young couples escaping crowded family homes for a starlit canoodle. Offshore the lights of the squid boats are a surreal sight -like a floating highway. The water has a dangerous undertow, especially in winter. However, it is safer than the rest of China Beach, the bulk of Nui Son Tra protects it from winds that whip up rough surf. This was the part of China Beach well known to American servicemen, and unfortunately a sleazy undertone lingers in parts.
Steeping
The main beachside hotels are all looking a little shabby, but a couple of new entrants in the surrounding streets offer better value.
Blue Sea Hotel (Tell: 0511-942 426; blueseahotel@gmail.com; 235 Đ Nguyen Van Thoai; r US$20-40; This friendly midsized hotel offers new and spotless rooms with satellite TV, fruits and bathtubs. Take the lane beside the My Khe Hotel and turn left at the end.
Golden Sea Hotel ( Tell: 0511-936 666; goldenseahotelt@vnn.vn; B26-29 Đ Pham Van Đong; r US$25-30, ste US$50; Well positioned halfway between the city and beach, the large new Golden Sea Hotel is in walking distance of both. Breakfast and internet access are provided free, and the suites have a steam room attached.
Eating & Drinking
My Khe Beach is rightly known for its excellent seafood restaurants.
My Hanh(Tell: 0511-831494; 18 Đ Du lich Son Tra; mains 80,000d; Time lunch& dinner) MvKhe Beach's most famous restaurant, it serves a wide selection offish, shrimp, squid, eel and crab dishes on its seaside terrace.
Van Xuan (Tell: 0511-941234; 233A Đ Nguyen Van Thoai; dishes 18,000-100,000d; Time lunch & dinner) An upmarket addition. Van Xuan has large tanks of live fish, lobsters and crocodiles. The owner once lived in Prague, and the restaurant brews its own Czech-style Five Mountains Beer.
Also worth trying is Phuoc My (Tell: 0511-831962; Đ Du Lich Son Tra; meals 25,000-100,000d; Time lunch & dinner) - a giggle-inducing name when pronounced correctly.
MY AN & NON NUOC BEACHES
The central section of China Beach is the least developed, with only a few hamlets and isolated resorts. It also offers the best surfing and diving.
Sleeping & Eating
Hoa's Place ( Tell: 0511-969 216; My An Beach. hoasplace@hotmail.com; r U$6) This Joint is small-scale, low key and laid back. Hoa and his wife ensure their home is your home. Good food and cheap beer (6000d) make it a smart lunch stop for passers-by. Take the second turning on the left past Furama heading south.
Sandy Beach Resort (Tell: 0511-836 216, www.sandybeachdanang.com; 255 Đ Huyen Tran Cong Chua, Non Nuoc Beach; s US$85-214,d US$90-219, bungalow US$120-231, villa US$160-375; An older resort given a make-over. Sandy Beach has intriguing echoes of 1970s socialist architecture, but it's clean and smart with two swimming pools, three bars and two restaurants. It has a wonderful location - just south of the Marble Mountains – on an isolated stretch of sand patrolled by its own lifeguards. Wi-fi internet is free.
Furama Resort Danang (Tell: 0511-847888: www.furamavietnam.com; 68 Đ Ho Xuan Huong, My An Beach; s US$207.299, d US$230-322, ste US$575 690; This is Danang's luxury hotel. In fact, for a long time it was Vietnam's luxury hotel. Perched on a private slice of China Beach, this lavish resort features a diving facility, a golf driving range, a gym and two pools, one with a waterfall. Rooms have opulent bathrooms and the finest five-star trim. Day-use of the grounds, pools and fitness centre is US$12 for nonguests. The restaurant is excellent although pricy; expect an extra US$14 charge for breakfast
CUA DAI BEACH
The fine sands of palm-lined Cua Dai Beach are popular at weekends, but can be deserted at other times. Safe swimming is usually only possible between April and October, but it's nice to walk or Just hang out here. During the full moon, people wander around until late at night. Fresh seafood and refreshments are sold at a line of restaurants along the beachfront, ail of which have deckchairs for hire.
Cua Dai Beach is 5km east of Hoi An on Đ Cua Dai.
Activities
Cua Dai is a good base for scuba divers exploring the nearby Cu Lao Cham Marine Park, 25 minutes away by speedboat. Vietnam's longest-standing and best respected dive company, Rainbow Divers (Tell:0510-927678; wvw.divevietnam.com) has a base at Cua Dai Beach, at the Hoi An Beach Resort- For certified divers, two dives cost US$75. Training is available for beginners.
Cua Dai Beach is also the home of Hoian Eco-Tour (Tell: 0510-927 808; www.hoianecotour.com; 7 Đ Cua Dai Beach; tours US$35-50), which offers a range of tours giving an insight into traditional Vietnamese life, including river and .sea fishing.
Sleeping
Cua Dai is home to some of the priciest resorts in Vietnam. If you're after a bargain, head for Hoi An.
Victoria Hoi An Resort (Tell: 0510-927 040, www.victoriahotels-asia.com; r S$121-202, ste US$242; Sitting on a huge slice of beach, this resort boasts all the stylish facilities you'd expect for the price, including a large pool, a separate children's pool and free wi-fi. Low-season discounts are usuallv available.
Palm Garden Resort (Tell: 0510 927 927; wvw.palmgardenresort.com.vn; Đ Lac Long Quan; r US$173-225. bun-galow US$248-282, ste US$1380; Another massive, super-flash new resort taking up a big chunk of beautiful beachfront, this ,one has an immense pool with a fountain and spouting dolphins, and a huge boat-shaped bar-restaurant. Active types can hire surf boards, windsurfers and jet skis, and there’s a beach volleyball court set up.
Luxury junkies should keep an eye out for the Nam Hai (Tell: 0510-940 000; www.ghmhotels.com, villas US$550-2300; Not open at the time of research, it promises an exquisitely designed luxury village of villas, each with their own private pool.
WARNING
The best time for swimming at China Beach is from May to July, when the sea is at its calmest. During other times the water can get rough; lifeguards only patrol parts of the beach. The dangerous winter con ditions go hand in-hand with large breakers, which are ideal for surfing - if you know what you're doing.