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- Tam Ky, the capital of Quang Nam province,is a nondescript town on the highway between Quang Ngai and Danang. However, the nearby Cham towers of Chien Dan (Chien Dan Cham; Hwy 1A; admission 10,000d; 8-11.30am & 1-530pm Mon-Fri) are wonderful. In a pleasant rural setting, few tourists venture here. Chances are you'll be left alone to explore the three towers and small sculpture museum. Although they escaped the bombing that My Son endured, scars from the American War are evident. The eerie feel of the interior of the middle tower is heightened by the numerous bullet holes in the wall - many people died here. Dating from the 11th or 12th century, each kalan (sanctuary) faces east. Many of the decorative friezes remain on the outside walls. The middle tower was dedicated to Shiva; at the front left-hand edge of its base there are carvings of dancing girls and a fight scene. Look for the grinning faces high up between this and the left tower (honouring Brahma) and the two elephants at the rear. The right-hand tower is dedicated to Vishnu. The site is visible to the right of the road on your approach to Tam Ky, 47km south of Hoi An (5km north of Tarn Ky). It will take about 50 minutes to reach by car, and can easily be combined with a trip to My Son.
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