The History of Cho Lon: From Settlement to Commerce and Conflict

The vibrant Chinese quarter of Cho Lon has long been a cultural and commercial hub in Ho Chi Minh City. Home to over half a million ethnic Chinese (Hoa), it remains Vietnam’s largest Chinese community, with deep-rooted traditions and a dynamic history.

Early Settlement & Commercial Expansion

The Hoa people began settling in Cho Lon around 1900, with many migrating from existing enclaves in My Tho and Bien Hoa. As the community grew, different groups carved out their own economic sectors, each specializing in specific trades:

  • Cantonese – Retail and groceries
  • Teochew – Tea and fish trading
  • Fukien (Hokkien) – Rice trade

Over time, Cho Lon flourished into a major economic powerhouse, attracting traders and businesses from across Southeast Asia.

The Rise of Vice & Influence

With prosperity came extravagance. By the early 20th century, the area was dotted with luxurious restaurants, casinos, brothels, and opium dens, catering to the city’s elite and expatriates—including Graham Greene, who documented his experiences in Ways of Escape.

By the 1950s, Cho Lon became a dangerous stronghold, dominated by the Binh Xuyen gang, which controlled many of its underground industries. Both the French and American forces navigated the district cautiously, while Viet Minh and Viet Cong insurgents used its labyrinthine alleys as safe havens. Journalist Frank Palmos was among those who faced the district’s perils when his jeep was ambushed during the Tet Offensive in 1968.

Post-War Struggles & Revival

Following Vietnam’s reunification, Cho Lon faced economic hardship. As Vietnam grew closer to the Soviet Union, relations with China deteriorated, leading to policies that disadvantaged the Hoa community. This was exacerbated by Vietnam’s invasion of Cambodia in 1978, triggering a brief but fierce border war with China. Fearing persecution, hundreds of thousands of ethnic Chinese fled Vietnam by boat, marking one of the largest exoduses of refugees in modern history.

Cho Lon Today: A Thriving Cultural & Commercial Hub

Decades later, Cho Lon has reclaimed its status as a major commercial center, with the Chinese business community playing a key role in Vietnam’s economy. The district’s storied past, marked by trade, conflict, and resilience, has transformed it into one of Ho Chi Minh City’s most fascinating and historically rich neighborhoods—a must-visit for those seeking a glimpse into its dynamic heritage.